Top Dish Eater Editors Ate This Week, October 2021


The amount of excellent food available in New York City is staggering – even during a pandemic – but mediocre meals continue to find their way into our lives. With the Eater editors who sometimes dine several times a day, we meet many remarkable dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back every week to check out the best things we ate this week, so you can too.

October 7

Sliced ​​fennel salad at One White Street.
Missy Frederick / Eater NY

One White Street Sliced ​​Fennel Salad

My inner Midwesterner came out a bit upon discovering the preciousness of One White Street on a work trip to New York City last week. Interior monologue: “Why $ 24 for five slices of crudo?” Why am I awkwardly perched on a stool that is definitely too small for my frame, all for the privilege of dining in this pseudo patio structure? But I’m finally glad I gave the place a chance, because it certainly didn’t disappoint in the execution. The sommelier was quick with a helpful recommendation of a light, zippy, chillier red from Chile, and the standout dish of several hits was shaved fennel (another stellar suggestion from a waiter). The combination of yuzu vinaigrette, blue cheese, white anchovy, and candied pistachio was nothing intuitive or expected, and the results were brilliant, crisp, and intriguing. I can handle a little preciousness in a place that can make an entree salad so exciting. 1 White Street, West Broadway, Tribeca – Missy Frederick, Director of Cities

Tasting menu at Fradei

I had a delicious dinner at Fradei, a lovely tasting menu at Fort Greene. It reminded me of Parisian neo-bistros – wine-centric, laid back, a bit experimental but still accessible. I love to experience a tasting menu that allows the kitchen to show a point of view without being a huge production or over $ 100. The food exceeded my expectations (especially a lobster in American sauce and a dish of eggplant and peppers sprinkled with pistachios), but the real highlight was the wine service, where you just choose your color and chat with the waiter your preferences or just let them choose for you. Would love to go back there just for a drink. 99 South Portland Avenue, near Fulton Street, Fort Greene – Amanda Kludt, Editor-in-Chief

Vegan green chorizo ​​sits on top of an avocado slice on an open-faced blue corn tortilla

Xilonen Green Chorizo ​​Taco
Ryan Sutton / Eater NY

Green chorizo ​​taco at Xilonen

After a long week stuck inside my home office, I managed to sneak past Friday to see how avant-garde Mexican spot Xilonen was doing after chef Alan Delgado left. Alas, some of the dishes I tasted didn’t seem ready for prime time, on many levels, but a green chorizo ​​taco managed to show off some of the sparkles that got me so excited about this place more early in the winter. A mound of plant-based sausage – the menu lists smoked pecans and roasted mushrooms as ingredients – featured meaty sweetness and wonderful warming aromas, while a tangy salsa verde added a solid dose of salt and acid. A fairly neutral blue corn tortilla acted as a good delivery mechanism for all of those precise, nimble flavors. I will definitely be back to try this dish again, and see how the rest of the menu evolves. 905 Lorimer Street in Nassau Street, Greenpoint – Ryan Sutton, Chief Critic

A circular dish filled with fried banana blossom pancakes and a cup of orange relish.

Tod hau phee in Tong.
Erika Adams / Eater NY

Tod hau phee in Tong

Thai newcomer Tong’s tod hau phee, or fried banana flower pancakes, are featured on the menu as a favorite regional after-school snack, which I read aloud as an after-work snack needed for me last week. The sweet blooms turn into crunchy, crispy, and salty little bites in the deep fryer, perfect for dipping in a side cup of crisp, sour cucumber relish. Accompanied by a drink which I ordered due to its name alone – After a long day – the meal at Tong bar was a relaxing solo time after, yes, a long day. 321 Starr Street, near Cypress Avenue, Bushwick – Erika Adams, reporter

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