This recipe for fried eggs in cream is a tangy version of the classic

As she noted in a recent phone interview from her farm in rural Maine, “An egg is almost neutral, so you can add different cheeses and herbs to it, and it will taste completely different.”

“When I was writing this book, I just wanted two chapters, sweet and savory. I don’t like to categorize a recipe as breakfast or dinner,” she said. Her theory: “Eggs are a breakfast food because the hens lay their eggs in the morning so you go out, milk the cows, collect the eggs and so of course you cook them for breakfast but I think they are great any time of the day.

Her publisher, of course, pushed her to give the book a bit more structure, so you’ll find 10 chapters featuring Steele’s classic egg dishes, such as frittatas, vanilla pudding and cheesecake. cheese, but also some unexpected ones, including a new -to-me Swedish Egg Coffee, Marshmallow Cream, and a labor-intensive recipe for making your own colorful sprinkles.

Steele, who about a decade ago left a job on Wall Street for life on the farm, is proud to be a fifth-generation “chicken sitter.” This cookbook grew out of his popular Fresh Egg Daily Blogwhich began by chronicling his efforts to raise chickens.

In the book’s introduction, she offers a picturesque view of that farm life, explaining how she gets up early and puts on some boots, picks up a basket and heads for some fresh eggs that her favorite hen, Miranda, has just laid. in the straw. This idyllic scene quickly leads to an efficient and practical guide to selecting, handling and cooking gleaned eggs from the thousands of eggs she has prepared herself.

As I read, I found myself happily underlining information that I wanted to remember. Here are some examples:

Why are the eggs sometimes different sizes in the same carton? The eggs are graded by size, but they are sold by weight, she wrote. A dozen large eggs should weigh 24 ounces or an average of 2 ounces per egg. As long as the total weight is 24 ounces, individual eggs can vary in size, with some being slightly larger and others slightly smaller, she writes. (The medium large egg has 2 tablespoons of white and 1 tablespoon of yolk, she writes.)

Can you freeze whole eggs? Steele freezes them separate and whole. To freeze them whole, she coats a flexible silicone ice cube tray with cooking spray. She breaks an egg into each compartment and then freezes the tray. Once the eggs are frozen, she takes them out and stores them in a freezer safe container. She thaws them in the fridge and then uses them to make fried eggs, egg sandwiches and in baking.

“There are times of the year when you have so many eggs you don’t know what to do with them,” said Steele, who has 18 chickens, 10 ducks and two geese.

The goal of her blog and book is to encourage people to think more broadly about eggs in their kitchens and to buy the freshest eggs possible from small farms, if possible. It encourages buyers to seek eggs labeled “Certified Humanely Raised and Handled” when it’s possible.

“I hope they will think about where they buy their eggs and what kind of eggs they buy, if they are fresher or if the chickens are happier,” she said.

I’ve tried several of his recipes, but the one I’ve made several times is the fried egg with cream.

“Who doesn’t have a little heavy cream at the bottom of the container,” Steele said. “They seem so simple, but when you make them, it’s surprising how good they are.”

You swirl the cream in a pan, crack the egg into the cream, then cook until the water evaporates from the cream, leaving only the fat, which then caramelizes a bit.

Sprinkle them with fresh herbs, if desired, and serve them with a salad and toast or cookies.

This little dish is a great example of the simplicity that can be perfect on a weeknight.

  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • Fine salt
  • Freshly cracked black pepper
  • 4 large eggs
  • Fresh thyme leaves, to serve (optional)
  • Toasts or cookies, for serving (optional)
  • Frisée salad, for serving (optional)

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the cream and swirl the pan to coat the bottom. Season lightly with salt and pepper and heat until the cream begins to boil, about 1 minute.

Carefully crack the eggs into a small bowl and slide them gently into the cream. As the eggs cook, the cream will boil, start to evaporate and the fats from the butter will start to caramelize around the edges. Watch carefully and turn down the heat if the cream starts to burn.

Cook until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still a bit runny, 5 to 8 minutes (a few more minutes if you want firmer yolks.)

Remove from the heat and use a spatula to separate the eggs and slide them onto plates. Collect the caramelized pieces of cream and add them to the plates. Season lightly with more salt and/or pepper, sprinkle with thyme, if using, and serve with toast or cookies and/or a lightly seasoned green salad, if desired.

Per serving (1 egg), based on 4

Calories: 174; Total fat: 16 g; Saturated fat: 8g; Cholesterol: 227mg; Sodium: 156mg; Carbohydrates: 1g; Dietary fiber: 0g; Sugar: 0g; Protein: 7g

This analysis is an estimate based on the available ingredients and this preparation. It should not replace the advice of a dietitian or nutritionist.

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