Highlights from our May 2022 issue – Texas Monthly
Texas monthly adds and updates approximately sixty restaurant listings to our restaurant guide each month. Space in the print issue is limited, but the entire searchable guide to the best of Texas cuisine is at your fingertips online!
Below are some highlights of the new restaurants reviewed in our May 2022 issue. Click “More Info” for more details on each restaurant:
Ubiquitous chef Tim Love has remodeled an abandoned building in the Stockyards from which to roll out his sleek, upbeat take on Mexican cuisine, starting with a showy preparation of queso, which we like to personalize with avocado, grilled shrimp and lime. The chili-pepita hummus with veggie crudites and grilled king crab legs slathered in cilantro-orange-chipotle butter is worth a return, as is the shareable porterhouse with grilled onions, assorted salsas and queso panela quesadillas. . A beef short rib topping kicks birria tacos up a notch, while venison lends new relevance to fajitas. The watermelon margarita and ranch water with muddled jalapeño are definitely worth a try.
Tex Mex | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$$$ | More information
Inspired by “precious moments” at the family table, Chef Brandi Key’s carefully curated menu (recently of Alice Blue) raises the bar for comforting American classics. In a warmly lit space perched on the City Center green, we enjoyed our deviled eggs, creamy and tangy with mustard and crispy bacon. The short ribs (no fat, no cartilage) were a carnivore’s dream, braised for 24 hours and served with fluffy gnocchi. Rockefeller oysters got a southern twist with a cornbread crumble, and roasted cauliflower arrived dusted with French curry and sprinkled with golden raisins, dried cherries and pistachios.
american | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$ | More information
If you still miss Gwendolyn, chef Michael Sohocki’s stylish River Walk spot, his new spot demonstrates the same dedication to craftsmanship and beautifully prepared cuisine. Local and seasonal flavors are retained, while the larger, more casual dining room offers room to spread out. Our delicious meal brought Spanish-style albóndigas in an earthy tomato sauce, topped with basil leaves and pecan-smoked cow’s milk cheese shavings from River Whey Creamery, Schertz. Opposite the earthy spectrum was a grilled redfish fillet with a nice garnish of fried spinach and grilled lemon.
american | ⭑⭑⭑⭑ | $$$ | More information
Wood-fired pizzas, handmade pastas and regional Italian dishes anchor the menu at this casual Oak Lawn restaurant. The Carne pizza wowed us with its chewy crust topped with crumbled pork sausage, crispy bacon and generous prosciutto folds. The creamy polenta of the day (it’s the stew that
turns) made a comforting main dish, drizzled with parmesan cheese and topped with a braised pork sauce. The roasted Brussels sprouts were some of the best we’ve had: glazed with honey for a caramelized crust and served with tangy goat cheese
cheese sauce. Seared octopus topped with horseradish aioli was accompanied by a warm salad of fingerling potatoes sprinkled with sliced almonds and thin asparagus.
italian | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$ | More information
El Pollo Tocayo
Lanny Lancarte’s new Fantasma (“Ghost”) kitchens offer a take-out concept featuring fried chicken and wood-smoked chicken, both of which are also winners. The fried bird boasts a crispy buttermilk jacket, while the cherry wood roasted poultry sports a browned exterior; both are served with a red vinegar salsa and tangy escabèche. Stealing the show on the side are mashed fingerling potatoes topped with queso fresco and salsa brava,
pesto-blackened green beans and an arugula salad with goat cheese and dried cherries. Lanny’s beloved churros with hot chocolate are the dessert of choice, and the carefully crafted cocktail kits, with
ice nugget – pay special attention.
Mexican | ⭑⭑⭑ | $$ | More information
Our reviews are written by reviewers who live in the cities and regions they cover. They remain anonymous to ensure that they do not receive any special treatment. The magazine pays for all meals and does not accept any advertising or other consideration in exchange for an entry. Comments? Write U.S.